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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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23 images Created 16 Nov 2014

Avalon

In 1980, in my second year working at a salmon cannery in Southeast Alaska, my partner and I bought this boat from another Englishman, an experienced boat-builder who built it in Bend, Oregon and sailed it up through the Inside Passage to Alaska. It was a 26 ft gaff cutter, with a hard chine hull, designed by a well known Port Angeles boat designer called George Buehler, who specialises in classic designs that are relatively cheap, fast and simple to build, and can be built in a back-garden or small shop by anyone without specialist boat construction skills. It was designed to provide maximum deck for such a small boat at the expense of the size of the cabin, which was very snug and cozy to say the least, and my skull had to become quickly accustomed to the frequent knocks on the stout timbers. The open foredeck provided enough space to stow my Klepper folding kayak as well as a small dinghy very aptly named "Teacup". The only problem with the deck was that it leaked very badly, partly because Jim the boat builder, had used mahogany for the deck, which is not ideal because of its tendency for excessive shrinkage and opening up of the seams. In his frustration he had hastily painted it with bitumastic paint, which quickly solved the problem, but left us with a very messy job to remove it, because it was neither aesthetically complimentary to an otherwise elegant looking boat, and the sticky, oily blackness contaminated everything. After we stripped it off I vainly attempted to recaulk the coach roof and deck, but we had sacrificed a dry interior for a more attractive exterior, which wasn't ideal for one of the wettest places on earth. My Alaskan partner Anne was very interested in Arthurian legends so we named the boat “Avalon”. She looked beautiful with her burgundy gaff sails aloft, but unfortunately the sailing was never consistently very good because of the very erratic wind direction and speeds in the sounds between the mainland and the islands.
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  • We had a small woodstove, for cooking and heating, which required very small pieces of wood. On the starboard side of the boat there was a bunker for wood. Much chopping, splitting and sawing was required to make kindling and a sufficient supply of short lengths of wood to keep the stove going. Because it was such a small space we could get smoked out very quickly. There was a little wooden stool next to the stove, which we referred to as the hot seat. We enjoyed having social gatherings on the boat, and they were very intimate cheek to jowl occasions because of the cramped space. The coach roof was supported by very stout laminated ash beams, which inflicted many painful bruises on my head and on anybody else who was forgetful of the limited overhead clearance. It was my first experience living on a boat and I absolutely loved it.
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  • When we first bought the sailboat from the builder, a highly skilled English shipwright called Jim, he had painted the deck with black bitumastic paint as a drastic last resort to stop the mahogany deck leaking. It worked but created such a horrible mess on our hands and clothes, or anything that came into contact with it so we had to bite the bullet and scrape it all off, and what a horrible job that was! We then had to recaulk it in the old traditional way, and seal it with sealant using a sealant gun, which was also a horribly messy job. It was the first time that I had done anything like that before. The final sealing with sealant wasn't very successful because the seams opened up so much in hot dry weather, and the deck always leaked to some degree in different places. Apparently mahogany isn't the ideal choice for decking because it shrinks and swells too much.
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  • My Klepper folding kayak fitted perfectly on the extra large deck for a small 28 ft sailboat. We also had a small dinghy called "Teacup" that fitted alongside my kayak on top of the forward hatch. They did get in the way when we were sailing but we didn't use the sails very often.
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  • There were two dry docks that we used in Petersburg: this one and one in the Old Harbour right in front of the Harbour Master's office, where we were in full view while docking her, and scrubbing and painting her hull, so we preferred to be out of public view at this one.
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  • Avalon wasn't the easiest boat to sail in the erratic wind conditions that are so prevalent in Southeast Alaska; there could be sudden gusts that knocked her right over on her side, and prompted much panic  to steer her back into the wind. I'm wearing my favourite hat and Woolrich coat from the Salvation Army charity shop in Petersburg, which was an endless source of useful items, and probably had the richest pickings of any charity shop that I have used regularly used.
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  • This photos shows how bare the rocks are in the inlet that has been sculpted by glacial action, and before there has been sufficient time for plant succession to gain any foothold.
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  • It was always important to know where the safest anchorages were because the weather conditions could deteriorate very quickly. Some weren't secure enough, and I spent many a sleepless night making sure that the anchor was still secure and that Avalon was being dragged onto the rocks.
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  • I made several trips to the amazing Glacier Bay National Park, in Avalon and just with my kayak.
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  • It was so beautiful to be out on Frederick Sound where it meets Stephens Passage to the North. It is surrounded by the mountains of the mainland to the East and the North, Kupreanof Island to the South, and Baranof and Admiralty Island to the West.  There are passages to get out to the Pacific Ocean, but it seems contained like a massive lake. It can be tranquil like a millpond like this photo, but very quickly transformed into a maelstrom by powerful South-easterly winds, and strong currents.
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  • The Brothers was one of my favourite and safest anchorages, with an entrance on either side, and a good beach near the anchorage for landing the dinghy or kayak. The intertidal life was amazing, and there was a special bonus of a rhubarb patch on one of the islands where there used to be a home.
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  • Pybus Bay was one of my favourite beautiful places in Southeast Alaska.<br />
Admiralty Island is an island in the Alexander Archipelago in Southeast Alaska. It is 145 km (90 mi) long and 56 km (35 mi) wide with an area of 4,264.1 km² (1,646.4 sq mi), making it the seventh largest island in the United States. It is one of the ABC islands of Alaska: Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof. The island is nearly cut in two by Seymour Canal; to its east is the long, narrow Glass Peninsula. Most of Admiralty Island — more than 955,000 acres (3,860 km²) is occupied by the Admiralty Island National Monument - a federally protected wilderness area administered by the Tongass National Forest. The Kootznoowoo Wilderness encompasses vast stands of old growth temperate rainforest. These forests provide some of the best habitat available to species such as brown bears, bald eagles, and Sitka black-tailed deer.
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  • Admiralty Island, Southeast Alaska, USA.<br />
I had my first close encounter with brown bears here. They were feeding on blueberries on the lower slopes of the mountains, and I crept as closely as I could until I started attracting too many biting insects, and had to fend them off without attracting the attention of the bears.At the Northern end of Seymour Canal that almost dissects Admiralty Island is the Pack Creek Brown Bear Viewing Area that offers visitors the opportunity to observe brown bears in their natural habitat as they fish for salmon and interact with one another during the summer months. It used to be the home of Stan Price who co-existed peacefully with the bears for many years. I used to visit Stan whenever I was up that far, and listened to his fascinating stories about the bears, that wandered around his cabins, and even on the roofs. It was in Windfall Harbour adjacent to Pack Creek where I was charged by a bear, and stopped it dead in its tracks by shouting at it with a thunderous voice to "GO BACK!"
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  • This is the entrance on the West side that faced Admiralty Island. To the right of the photo you can see the distinctive outline of the hills that creates "the Sleeping Giant", as everybody called it. Later on when I was just kayaking, I still liked to stop here to camp because there was a very good place to camp near where I took this photo from. In the opposite direction behind this beach was a small island that was used as a haul-out by Steller sea lions. Whenever they were there you could constantly hear their rumbling groaning and roaring. There is also a lot of seal and seabird activity around the island, and particularly around the kelp beds. One of the regular seabirds there are pigeon guillemots (Cepphus columba), with their distinctive high-piched squeaking. Humpback whales also frequently feed in the nutrient-rich waters around the island, as a result of the strong upwelling created by strong currents colliding. I had my first close encounter with humpback whales lunge-feeding right next to the rocky shoreline of one of the islands.
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  • We would have been motoring with the sails hoisted, as we often used to do, to assist our speed and stabilise the boat in any choppy seas. Glacier Bay was the northernmost place that I used to travel to in Southeast Alaska, and any trips there were always eagerly anticipated because of the stupendous mountain scenery and all of the dramatic tidewater glaciers and inlets.
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  • The Johns Hopkins Inlet is probably the most spectacular glacial inlet in Glacier Bay, but it was usually so heavily choked with ice that it was virtually impossible to get anywhere near the face of the huge glacier.
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  • This is the same place where I was charged by a brown bear catching salmon like this one. I was photographing it and suddenly it started charging towards me. I was still looking at it through the viewfinder until I realised that it was starting to fill the  screen, and that in fact it wasn't actually chasing fish anymore but charging me! I lowered my camera and my first instinct was to stand firm and tall, point at it in a commanding manner, and shout as loud as I could " go back!", which it duly obliged in doing. It screeched to a halt, snarled at me, and then swung around and ran away into the high grass, leaving me frozen to the spot with my heart in my mouth, my eyes and mouth wide-open and trembling from head to foot.
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