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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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  • Southeast-Alaska-winter9.jpg
  • MtKinabalo-5.tif
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  • The crossing to the Isle of Coll was good, but I was already experiencing the difficult sea conditions and ocean swells resulting from strong currents and variable wind patterns. I landed at the northern end of the island, and camped on a nice sandy beach between the extensive sand dunes and offshore rocks that create a labyrinth of pools and channels. There is an unmanned lighthouse on one of the offshore rocks. Coll is about 13 miles (20.9 km) long by 3 (4.8 km) miles wide with a population of around 220. Coll has no street lights and little other light pollution, and has been recognised as only the second location in Scotland with dark skies, enabling spectacular views of the heavens, including the Milky Way, when the sky is clear, something that I have also been able to enjoy whilst camping in Alaska and Baja.
    Kayaking-West-Coast-Scotland3.jpg
  • Once I managed to drag myself away from the feeding basking sharks in Gunna Sound I headed SE to the southern end of Mull and then E to the small island of Lunga not too far off the mainland. The sea conditions were quite moderate and it was a very pleasant paddle highlighted by a most unexpected encounter. Shortly before arriving at Lunga I saw something on the surface with part of it sticking up above the surface and moving quickly. As I got closer I was able to identify the unmistakeable shape and unique means of propulsion of a sunfish. They can grow to a massive size but this was just a very small one. It was the first time that I’ve seen one, although they have been sighted quite frequently along the south coast of England, and even very close to the shore of one of my local beaches in Torbay. I had always associated them with tropical waters and never ever expected to see one that far north, but such is the changing nature of our climate and ocean currents that there will be a concomitant shift in the migratory patterns of many warm water creatures such as turtles. I managed to get close enough to get a good view of its unusual shape and the gyrating “sculling” action of its tail fin but then it disappeared, although it kept returning to the surface, so I could see how it gets its name of sunfish because they are surface baskers like the basking shark, although they are just doing it to feed.<br />
I had very good memories of visiting Lunga by boat during my first trip to the Inner Hebrides in 1990, especially seeing puffins up close for the first time. I was really looking forward to returning there and being able to camp on the island for a while. It is of volcanic origin and has been described as “a green jewel in a peacock sea” and once I was there again I could only echo that poetic description. It is one of the most beautiful places where I have ever camped and a place that I will always dream of returning to.
    Kayaking-West-Coast-Scotland14.jpg
  • Harbor seals (Phoca vitulina), are “true seals” of the Phocidae family, also sometimes called “common” or “hair” seals. They are covered with short, stiff, bristle-like hair. Coloration varies, but two basic patterns occur: light gray sides and belly with dark blotches or spots, or a dark background with light rings. They can be distinguished from other pinnipeds, such as fur seals and sea lions, by the absence of external ear flaps; only a small hole (the external pinnae, or opening to the ear canal) is visible on either side of their head. When on land, harbor seals move awkwardly by undulating in a caterpillar-like motion because their pelvic bones are fused, preventing them from moving their hind flippers under their pelvis to walk. In the water they are graceful and efficient swimmers, using their fore flippers as rudders and their hind flippers for propulsion by clasping both hind flippers together, splaying webbed toes and moving the large hind flippers side to side.<br />
Harbor seals weigh about 24 pounds (11 kg) at birth and gain weight rapidly during a month-long suckling period; perhaps doubling their weight. They can reach five to six feet (1.5-1.8 meters) in length. Average weight for adults is about 180 pounds (82 kg); males are somewhat larger than females and can weigh up to 285 pounds (129 kg).
    Alaska-harbour-seal7.jpg
  • Harbor seals show variable movement patterns depending on their sex and age class, with some exhibiting considerable localized travel but noseasonalpatterns,whileothersshowmoreextendedmovements,particularlyduringthewinter. Seasonaluseofglacialfjords,wheremanyfemalesaggregateto give birth on icebergs in the summer, is common. Satellite tagging studies have shown that pups may range up to 232 miles (374 km) from their birth site, although most movements are less than 62 miles (100km) away. Juvenile seals can make more extensive movements of up to 186-310 miles (300-500 km) away from their tagging location; however, most remain within 100km. Adult seals typically make shorter movements and on average are within 37 miles (60km) of their tagging site. More recent tagging of seals that occupy glacial fiords has revealed movements of seals from one glacial fiord to another as well as one extensive movement of a juvenile female seal from Glacier Bay in southeastern Alaska to Prince William Sound, an estimated straight-line distance of ~ 520 miles (830 km). As more seals are being satellite-tagged, much more information is becoming available about winter and summer movements.
    Alaska-harbour-seal2.jpg
  • When it comes to food, black bears are creatures of opportunity. There are certain patterns of food-seeking which they follow. Upon emerging in the spring, freshly sprouted green vegetation is their main food item, but they will eat nearly anything they encounter. Winter-killed animals are readily eaten, and in some areas black bears have been found to be effective predators on new-born moose calves. As summer progresses, feeding shifts to salmon if they are available, but in areas without salmon, bears rely on vegetation throughout the year. Berries, especially blueberries, ants, grubs, and other insects help to round out the black bear’s diet.<br />
For most of the year, black bears are solitary creatures, except from June through July when mating takes place. The cubs are born in their dens following a gestation period of about seven months. The cubs are born blind and nearly hairless, weighing in under a pound. One to four cubs may be born, but two is most common. Cubs remain with their mothers through the first winter following birth.As with brown bears, black bears spend the winter months in a state of hibernation. Their body temperatures drop, their metabolic rate is reduced, and they sleep for long periods. Bears enter this dormancy period in the fall, after most food items become hard to find. They emerge in the spring when food is again available. Occasionally, in the more southern ranges, bears will emerge from their dens during winter. In the northern part of their range, bears may be dormant for as long as seven to eight months. Females with cubs usually emerge later than lone bears. Dens may be found from sea level to alpine areas. They may be located in rock cavities, hollow trees, self-made excavations, even on the ground. In Southeast Alaska, black bears occupy most islands with the exceptions of Admiralty, Baranof, Chichagof, and Kruzof; these are inhabited by brown bears. Both bear species occur on the southeastern mainland.
    Alaska-wildlife-bearAlaska-wildlifeA...jpg