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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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Duncan Murrell - A Whale of a Time

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  • Transport just about anywhere in Madagascar is very difficult because of the lack of good roads and the seasonal heavy rains, but to travel along the east coast is particularly difficult because there are many rivers to cross, and very few bridges that can actually survive the seasonally bad weather. There are rafts that are either moved manually with poles or powered by motorized boats, or people are ferried in the traditional dugout “pirogues”. I was amazed at how stable they make them look, even when they are standing up or perched high up on the stern, because when I tried to paddle one, there was only going to be one place that I would end up, and that was in the water.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey10.jpg
  • Transport just about anywhere in Madagascar is very difficult because of the lack of good roads and the seasonal heavy rains, but to travel along the east coast is particularly difficult because there are many rivers to cross, and very few bridges that can actually survive the seasonally bad weather. There are rafts that are either moved manually with poles or powered by motorized boats, or people are ferried in the traditional dugout “pirogues”. I was amazed at how stable they make them look, even when they are standing up or perched high up on the stern, because when I tried to paddle one, there was only going to be one place that I would end up, and that was in the water.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey11.jpg
  • I was driven to Foulpointe and had to reassemble my kayak on the beach in torrential rain. I attracted a large crowd of onlookers including lots of excited children just as I did when I first assembled and launched my kayak at Tamatave. The local people were fascinated that I had a folding kayak inside two bags. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to impress them with any degree of composure and speed with which I assembled the kayak, because the wooden frame became covered with sand in the pouring rain, making the assembly much more difficult. One sweet little girl held an umbrella over my head as I struggled to re-assemble it, with blood running from cuts on my agitated hands; it was one of those situations when I could have done without an audience! <br />
Eventually I was able to launch my kayak with much clapping and cheering from my faithful audience. I paddled around the point and discovered that beyond the protection of the coral reef in front of town there were still ranks of intimidating breakers extending as far as the eye could see. I didn’t want a repetition of the first day so I decided to exercise caution and find another car to take me to Soaniarana-Ivongo. From there I would catch the ferry to Isle Sainte Marie, a popular tourist destination from where the migrating humpback whales can often be seen. I wasn’t too discouraged by the sea conditions beyond there because I knew that north of Isle Ste. Marie there are long stretches of coastline sheltered by coral reefs – according to my maps anyway.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey7.jpg
  • I was driven to Foulpointe and had to reassemble my kayak on the beach in torrential rain. I attracted a large crowd of onlookers including lots of excited children just as I did when I first assembled and launched my kayak at Tamatave. The local people were fascinated that I had a folding kayak inside two bags. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to impress them with any degree of composure and speed with which I assembled the kayak, because the wooden frame became covered with sand in the pouring rain, making the assembly much more difficult. One sweet little girl held an umbrella over my head as I struggled to re-assemble it, with blood running from cuts on my agitated hands; it was one of those situations when I could have done without an audience! <br />
Eventually I was able to launch my kayak with much clapping and cheering from my faithful audience. I paddled around the point and discovered that beyond the protection of the coral reef in front of town there were still ranks of intimidating breakers extending as far as the eye could see. I didn’t want a repetition of the first day so I decided to exercise caution and find another car to take me to Soaniarana-Ivongo. From there I would catch the ferry to Isle Sainte Marie, a popular tourist destination from where the migrating humpback whales can often be seen. I wasn’t too discouraged by the sea conditions beyond there because I knew that north of Isle Ste. Marie there are long stretches of coastline sheltered by coral reefs – according to my maps anyway.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey8.jpg
  • People walking to the promenade to view the floats at the end of the Balayong Festival parade. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-74.tif
  • People walking to the promenade to view the floats at the end of the Balayong Festival parade. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-11.tif
  • I was driven to Foulpointe and had to reassemble my kayak on the beach in torrential rain. I attracted a large crowd of onlookers including lots of excited children just as I did when I first assembled and launched my kayak at Tamatave. The local people were fascinated that I had a folding kayak inside two bags. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to impress them with any degree of composure and speed with which I assembled the kayak, because the wooden frame became covered with sand in the pouring rain, making the assembly much more difficult. One sweet little girl held an umbrella over my head as I struggled to re-assemble it, with blood running from cuts on my agitated hands; it was one of those situations when I could have done without an audience! <br />
Eventually I was able to launch my kayak with much clapping and cheering from my faithful audience. I paddled around the point and discovered that beyond the protection of the coral reef in front of town there were still ranks of intimidating breakers extending as far as the eye could see. I didn’t want a repetition of the first day so I decided to exercise caution and find another car to take me to Soaniarana-Ivongo. From there I would catch the ferry to Isle Sainte Marie, a popular tourist destination from where the migrating humpback whales can often be seen. I wasn’t too discouraged by the sea conditions beyond there because I knew that north of Isle Ste. Marie there are long stretches of coastline sheltered by coral reefs – according to my maps anyway.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey6.jpg
  • Myanmar-Burma-people-events73.jpg
  • Myanmar-Burma-people-events74.jpg
  • Myanmar-Burma-people-events72.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with guest and cook from the banca tour boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_3170.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with Spanish tourist and guide from the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_3558.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with freediving cook from the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawanDMurrellSE...jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) vertical suction feeding with guide from the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_2917.jpg
  • Cook from the tour banca boat assisting a tourist watching a whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with a shoal of rainbow runner (Elagatis bipinnulata), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawanDMurrellSE...jpg
  • Tourist diving down to a whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawanDMurrellSE...jpg
  • Over-under photo of a whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with a tourist below a tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_0637.jpg
  • Juvenile whale shark (Rhincodon typus), with tour guides and tourist, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_9161.jpg
  • Over-under photo of whale shark (Rhincodon typus) below tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7453.jpg
  • Over-under photo of whale shark (Rhincodon typus) below tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7385.jpg
  • Tourist and guides snorkelling with whale shark (Rhincodon typus) by the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7370.jpg
  • Tourist and guide snorkelling with whale shark (Rhincodon typus) by the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7360.jpg
  • Over-under photo of whale shark (Rhincodon typus) below banca tour boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7229.jpg
  • Tourists snorkelling with whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7076.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) feeding on plankton at the surface with tourists, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5339.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) feeding on plankton on the surface with tourists, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5210-E...jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with the Captain and guide of the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_3376.jpg
  • Tourist diving with a whale shark (Rhincodon typus) , Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_2415.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_1935.jpg
  • Spanish tourist hanging on to the dorsal fin of a whale shark (Rhincodon typus) after being told that it was prohibited, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_8453.jpg
  • Shoal of red fish that was trying to avoid a whale shark with a tourist from the banca tour boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_8230.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with tourist and shoal of red fish evading predation, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_8229.jpg
  • Two tourists swimming with a whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawanDMurrellSE...jpg
  • Tourists observing a whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_0500.jpg
  • Juvenile whale shark (Rhincodon typus), with tour guides and tourist, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_9156.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) feeding on plankton on the surface with a snorkeller, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7789.jpg
  • Over-under photo of a whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with the boat's cook and tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7495-E...jpg
  • Selfie with whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7138.jpg
  • Tourists snorkelling around whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_6800.jpg
  • Tourists and guide swimming with whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_6487.jpg
  • Research assistant with the LAMAVE (Large Marine Vertebrate) Research Institute diving down to a whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philippines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5796.jpg
  • Research assistant with the LAMAVE (Large Marine Vertebrate) Research Institute diving down to whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5793.jpg
  • Myself on the left with guests and crew on the whale shark tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_2563.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_8259.jpg
  • Two whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) and guide from the tour boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_3088.jpg
  • Juvenile whale shark (Rhincodon typus), with tour guides and tourist, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawanDMurrellSE...jpg
  • Tourist and guides snorkelling with whale shark (Rhincodon typus) by the tour banca boat, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_7363.jpg
  • Juvenile whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with common remora (Remora remora) attached and tourists, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5330.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with Spanish tourist, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_3519.jpg
  • Research assistant with the LAMAVE (Large Marine Vertebrate) Research Institute diving down to whale shark (Rhincodon typus), Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philippines.
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_5797.jpg
  • Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) with common remora (Remora remora) attached and snorkellers, Honda Bay, Palawan, the Philppines
    whale-shark-people-palawan_MG_2820.jpg
  • What an auspicious start to my trip! I had already made one false start leaving too late in the day and having to head back to the relative shelter of Tamatave. The next day I paddled 20 miles along the completely featureless coastline, and all I saw was a continuous, steep beach, with the big swells of the Indian Ocean crashing down onto it. I couldn’t see any ideal places for making a safe landing so I had to just go for it, come what may. I monitored the sequence of waves and made a dash for it at what seemed the safest point. I managed to get through the surf but as soon as I hit the beach and jumped out of the kayak the next wave broke into the cockpit and the powerful undertow started to drag my heavy flooded kayak back out to sea. The alarm bells were already clanging away inside my head, along with the thought, “Here’s another fine mess I’ve got myself into!”<br />
I instinctively started grabbing bags out of the kayak and hurling them up onto the beach while either my feet or knees were desperately anchoring into the abrasive shingle, but I was still being dragged around mercilessly by my unruly kayak. I looked down along the endless beach and saw two diminutive figures so I started hollering for help. As they got nearer my heart sank because I could see that it was a young girl with a child. They could only grab my things that were floating away in the relentless surf but then miraculously a strong young man appeared on the scene, and jumped into the sea to help me wrestle with my half-submerged kayak. The kayak was a dead weight in the water so I decided to start dismantling the cockpit coaming so that some of the water could be drained from the cockpit. It worked, and after much heaving we managed to drag it up the beach away from the surf; we both collapsed on the shore, utterly exhausted and chilled by the cold water. I was eternally grateful for the providential arrival of that young man on that deserted stretch of coastline.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey1.jpg
  • Tagbanua-Batak-2.tif
  • Tagbanua-Batak-9.tif
  • Happy participants of the Balayong Festival parade celebrating at Baywalk, the city's promenade.The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-24.tif
  • Baragatan-street-dancing-66.jpg
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  • Myanmar-Burma-agriculture14.jpg
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  • Myanmar-Burma-agriculture27.jpg
  • Palawan-people15.jpg
  • Palawan-people18.jpg
  • Puerto-Princesa-festivals24.jpg
  • Puerto-Princesa-festivals23.tif
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  • Palawan-people8.tif
  • Palawan-people14.tif
  • Palawan-people1.tif
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  • Palawan-people23.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-77.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-78.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-76.jpg
  • Miss Puerto Princesa beauty pageant at the Coliseum, Puerto Princesa, Palawan, the Philippines.
    BalayongFestival-53.tif
  • Miss Puerto Princesa beauty pageant at the Coliseum, Puerto Princesa, Palawan, the Philippines.
    BalayongFestival-54.tif
  • Dancers at the presentation of prizes for the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-47.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-46.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-42.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-43.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-28.tif
  • Dancers performing in the Balayong Festival street dancing competition.
    BalayongFestival-26.tif
  • Barangay beauty queen on a barangay float in the Balayong Festival parade.
    BalayongFestival-14.tif
  • Dancers posing before the Balayong Festival street dancing competition. The festival at the beginning of March commemorates the founding anniversary of the City of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, highlighted by balayong tree-planting, street dancing and a colourful floral parade depicting the Palawan cherry blossoms from which the festival derives its name. The Palawan cherry is one of the most popular flowering trees in Palawan and known by the locals as the Balayong, a beautiful tree that when it is in full bloom resembles the cherry blossoms of Japan.
    BalayongFestival-2.tif
  • My next destination was to attempt to get out to Nosy Atafana, a small group of three islands surrounded by a coral reef just to the north of Antanambe, that constitutes one of only four protected marine parks in Madagascar. I was able to buy some fresh supplies at Antanambe for the trip. It was the first time that I had actually seen any of the fish species that were on sale in the market. Most of the marine habitats that I had observed along the way so far were very sparsely populated with fish.
    Kayaking-Madagascar-journey22.jpg
  • N-Baragatan-street-dancing-6.jpg
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  • Baragatan-street-dancing-5.jpg
  • Baragatan-street-dancing-48.jpg
  • Baragatan-street-dancing-45.jpg
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